I Electrified My Push Scooter with a Power Drill
Project: Converting a Push Scooter to Electric via Power Drill
Back in July, I hit upon a somewhat ridiculous idea: why not transform my standard push scooter into an electric vehicle?
I primarily utilize my scooter to navigate around during autocross events while working the course. While it serves its purpose, I found myself feeling envious of the other participants zipping around on modern electric scooters, especially given how affordable they've become.
I could have just bought a pre-made electric scooter. However, I already owned a scooter and didn't see the point in owning two, as one would inevitably just gather dust.
The Foundation
The base for this project was a Razor A5 Lux. This model was absolutely not designed for electrification, but by leveraging my welder, 3D printer, and a variety of components sourced from Amazon, McMaster, and Harbor Freight, I managed to cobble together something truly impressive.
Technical Specifications
The vehicle is front-wheel drive (mimicking my Civic) and is powered by a high-torque Hercules cordless drill.
"The drill is fairly loud and possesses an excessive amount of torque, requiring it to be operated on the lower speed setting."
Performance Metrics:
- Top Speed: (with rider onboard).
- Incline Performance: Slows down slightly on hills, but the drill handles the load effortlessly.
- Range: A battery provides roughly of travel.
- Efficiency Calculation:
Engineering & Mechanics
The power transmission system is designed so that the front wheel can still free-spin when the motor is inactive. This is achieved through a combination of a keyed shaft and one-way bearings.
Power Flow Diagram
The Throttle Challenge
Relocating the trigger to the handlebars proved more difficult than expected. While opening the drill was straightforward (the trickiest part was the left-hand bolt securing the chuck), the trigger assembly contained a surprising number of wires.
To make this work, I had to:
- Cut each individual wire.
- Extend them using
12awgand18awgwiring. Install professional wire loom.Decided to embrace the "jank" for now.
Handling Note: The trigger is incredibly sensitive. Because it wasn't designed for a vehicle, there is almost no way to "feather" the acceleration. Consequently, the scooter often performs a brief burnout before it gains enough momentum to move forward. My current strategy is to provide a few manual kick-pushes before engaging the drill.
Custom Fabrication
I decided to over-engineer the front wheel by using a 3D scanner on the original scooter.
Wheel Construction
The assembly consists of three printed pieces:
- Wheel Hub/Spokes: Printed in
ASAfor strength. - Tire: Printed in
TPUfor grip and flexibility.
The two halves of the wheel are joined by 10 M6 bolts and nuts, with 5 keys (one per spoke) for stability. To prevent the TPU tire from slipping on the ASA wheel, I utilized a "squish fit" design and integrated internal teeth on the mounting surface.
Bill of Materials (BOM)
| Quantity | Component | Specification |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | Cordless Drill | Hercules 20v |
| 2 | One Way Bearings | CSK12PP Dual Keyway |
| 2 | Bearings | 6201-2RS |
| 2 | Shaft Collars | 12mm |
| 2 | Keys | 4x4x12mm |
| 1 | Key Stock | 1 1/16" x 1/16" |
| 10 | Bolts | M6 x 30mm |
| 10 | Nuts | M6 Lock Nuts |
| 1 | Rotary Shaft | 200mm 12mm Keyed |
Final Build Checklist
- 3D Scan original wheel
- Print ASA wheel and TPU tire
- Modify drill trigger wiring
- Install one-way bearing assembly
- Weld mounting brackets
- Install wire loom (Pending)
Final Verdict: In terms of raw cost, I didn't save a dime compared to buying a commercial electric scooter. However, the process of building it was an absolute blast.